Interview With Jewelry - CRATEX Abrasives
This article is part of Jewelry Then & Now series.
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Morgan Asoyuf (nee. Green) was born March 24, 1984 in Prince Rupert BC, to parents Henry Green and Jean Gardiner. Morgan is Ts'msyen Eagle Clan from Lax Kwallams BC.
Morgans artistic career started with Blanche Macdonald Centres Fashion Design Diploma, and an interest in painting Ts’msyen Designs. She carved cedar and alder while working with Henry Green, learning about the properties of the wood and how to properly care for it.
She took Bronze Casting at The Crucible art compound in Oakland, where industry professionals taught her both investment mold and Sand Casting.
In 2010 Morgan began studying at Vancouver Metal Art School under Gerold Mueller, a goldsmith from Pforzheim Germany. She received diplomas in both Jewelry design and Stone cutting learning special techniques such as hollow construction, custom stone cutting, and advanced soldering.
Morgan has studied design and engraving with Richard Adkins, and completed Gem Setting courses at Revere Academy in San Francisco.
Welcome, Morgan! And thanks for accepting to do this interview with us. Could you please tell us a bit about yourself? What would you like the people to know about you right away?
I create one of a kind jewelry that is completely handmade from start to finish using the German technique of hollow building to produce layers and shadow.
Starting with flat sheet the metal is shaped and soldered.
I am both a purist and an experimenter. I handmake all my tools, melt and pour metal, make my wire and sheet. I use experimental textures and construction to see how far I can bend the ideas of form.
I am involved in every process of creating a piece, doing my own gem setting and stone cutting.
How long have you been working as a jewelry artist?
I have been working as a goldsmith, engraver and gem setter for 7 years. Previous to this I have been a full-time artist for 12 years doing woodcarving, painting, drawing and fashion design.
What kind of jewelry do you design/create?
I create one of a kind silver and gold jewelry using special techniques such as hollow construction, custom stone cutting, and advanced soldering. My practice is based in the northern style of Tsimshian art and culture. While representing the art form I experiment with new mediums and styles, while adhering to law and protocol.
What materials are you using for jewelry making?
I use silver, gold, copper, gems, stone (i.e. marble), ivory, hardwood. I also use nickel silver and brass to make models of difficult designs.
Can you describe a day on the job as a jeweler/goldsmith? Or your typical work week if more suitable?
- I do very different things each day, working on a mix of faster projects and long term high end projects. Cast line - creating gem settings, soldering, sanding, polishing, setting gems…
- higher end work- drawing, making models, cutting out silver/gold, soldering, making handmade chain. engraving, gem setting, cleaning - sanding polishing etc., oxidizing
- usually spend some amount of time every day using sanding and polishing wheels
- generally, have to re-supply fairly often with supply companies (weekly or bi-weekly)
- business stuff- replying to emails, pricing, accounting, speaking to galleries and clients via phone, social media (I attempt to do daily social media)
- toolmaking is more of a monthly thing, with sharpening/refinishing every week of steel tools for engraving, gem setting etc.
What's the last piece that you've created that you are especially proud of?
“Winter eagle pendant”
Materials: Silver, Ivory inlay / Hollow built with handmade chain
How can people purchase your pieces? Do you ship outside Canada?
My work is available directly through my website, social media, or email. I ship anywhere in the world. I am also available though Vancouver galleries Museum Of Anthropology and Bill Reid Gallery. In Victoria BC Alcheringa Gallery. In the US I am available through Steinbrueck Gallery. If you are interested in lower end work such as hoodies and cups I can be found at Salishstyle.com (USA) or Nativenorthwestselect.com (Canada).
What are the most essential tools every jeweler needs to have, especially if just starting out? Can you name at least Top 5?
Foredom (with burrs, polishing, sanding, abrasives wheels), hammers, jewelers saw, files, torch and bricks. The most essential is the knowledge to make your own tools.
How did you learn about CRATEX products? Official website, forum/blog, recommended by other jeweler?
Recommended by industry professionals I was working with as well as mentors.
When did you start using CRATEX abrasives?
I used CRATEX products previously (such as large wheel abrasives) for knife making, as far back as 2006.
In 2012. I lived in Oakland California to learn bronze casting and was again introduced to the product line by industry professionals, for finishing work on small bronze sculptures.
I began using CRATEX products again but for jewelry in 2010 during my formal schooling as a goldsmith. They were recommended by my mentor.
Which CRATEX products do you use?
I use all of them. The large wheels, sticks, mandrels and blocks for knifemaking (shaping and sharpening steel), and all the smaller wheels and cones for jewelry - mostly polishing, and especially getting into harder to reach places where I want to maintain the texture (i.e. in engraved/gouged areas).
Why did you choose CRATEX products instead of some other manufacturer?
The quality - they last a long time and I find the polish to be superior to other brands.
Would you recommend CRATEX to other jewelers, and if yes, how would the recommendation sound?
CRATEX provides a high-quality product that lasts longer and provides premium results.